Hey guys love the show I listen to you all the time, you pack all your shows with super helpful information that gets people thinking. Anyways my question is regarding autoflowers that don’t switch over to flower. How would you get them to switch over. If it’s by switching to 12/12 can you switch back to 18/6 or 20/4 once they start flowering or will that force them back into veg like photo periods. Thanks for the time! Cheers
Autos start to flower based on time from germination and not a light schedule.
They’ve been in veg for 9 weeks now. Autos don’t take that long to switch over. Specially when all the other plants switch in week 3/4
After that long in veg it’s pretty safe to say those not flowering are photo periods plants.
That was what I was thinking as well but the company I got the seeds from doesn’t sell any photoperiod plants. One of the other strains I am growing from them started flowering week three except for 1 of the 4 stayed in veg. Then just the other day in week seven It magically started showing pistils. I am super confused on what’s going on with these plants.
What is your soil and feeding like…? I look at plants as all having their own time frame. Like we all want to put them in a nice 8 week calendar but thats only doable if you have your system dialed in and running 100, as the kids say. So if these are Autos and are set to flower at 6-8 weeks naturally its all on you from the second it sprouts to keep it on track for its life. The only thing you can do is HOLD THEM BACK. Time will not stop but you can make the plants struggle and start adding time. If you have all the same genetics and see some starting to flower and others not then you can start figuring out what happened different. Are they in the light more or outside the light… Are they getting cooler than the others in a corner or drying out faster. All variables can alter the plant and extend the time it takes to grow. Autoflowers like Mystro said are not affected by the light cycle but could be sensitive to the intensity and might like less to thrive. These genetics are rooted in not needing any human interaction so its a fine line between doing too much. If you have the time and are willing, I think you just need to wait a bit longer and see what you have. If there is no change then you should contact the breeder and if they are legit they will make it right.
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-GFK
I am growing in promix hp mycorrhizae in 5 gallon fabric pots, temps stay steady at 77° with a Rh is 45% at the moment. Two of the four plants were directly under the light and two were on the outside. I struggled the first week and a bit to get the RH in check and it got a tad bit low. I started them off in red solo cups and at day 15 transplanted them into the bigger pots. I may have stressed out the roots a bit doing that but they bounced back and vegged pretty normal. Ever since that everything has been in check and I started off giving them quarter strength nutrients (green planet nutrients) on day 40, I like to do water feed water water feed schedule and I usually water/feed them once a week or when I feel the pots dry out. For the first few weeks I ph’d my water to 6.2/6.3 but lately my run off has been a bit low 5.5 so the last two times I watered them at 6.5/6.6.
As for waiting a bit longer I can totally do that, I have 10 other plants in the same room that need to finish up before I can think about switching to 12/12.
I’ve also contacted the breeder with no response so needless to say I am not going back there.
I’ve had the same issue before and i think it’s from the plants not being completely stable. It takes a lot of back crossing to get them to all auto and even then you can get a very small percentage that won’t auto. You can change your light cycle and get it to flower but from what I’ve seen you have to leave it at that cycle until finished or it will start to re veg.
Totally what I was thinking too, genetics of the plants and not actually being back breed long enough to be a proper stable auto. Do you think by switching to 12/12 I would lose out on the yield? Like they won’t get to be their full potential? Cheers!
You are talking just the one that didn’t auto right? Running a true auto at 12/12 will but that one isn’t a true auto. By the time your others finish she may be a lot bigger and would yield more. I had one a while back that was a super stinky from Stitch and I gave up on her autoflowering so I started topping her to keep her small enough to flower and all of a sudden she started flowering. I got 4 oz off her after breaking every rule you hear about autoflowers. But I wouldn’t do it again. That sucks that the breeder never got back to you but now you know that they’re full of shit and not to buy from them.
I planted 4 Nlbb and 4 pk 3 of the nlbb started flowering week 3/4 and the rest stayed vegging until just the other day the last nlbb started showing pistils. And yes that’s exactly what I did, I topped two out of the four pk and start pulling the other down and doing some leaf tucking. I am hoping to get a good yield out of them once I switch them.
Funny story about the breeder not getting back to me….. they actually did but it got sent to my junk mail and didn’t see it there until I got the notification that you commented hahaha opps my bad.
This was featured on EP 927. Thanks for the post!